The Shanty Supper Club: Midwest Comfort Food in the Heart of Denver
The Shanty Supper Club is an interesting concept to hit the streets of the E. 17th Avenue on the border between the West City Park and North Cap Hill neighborhoods. Of all things it’s serving up Midwest comfort food specifically from Wisconsin. That means cheese curds, fried fish, Schlitz beer and more. But don’t let that fool you. The food is lovingly prepared by Syrup head chef Irvin Susano and it is really, really good. In fact I think one of the best meals on the menu is the Wild Mushroom Pot Pie and it should be a big hit. Smokey, creamy and delicious, the whole mushrooms are presented spectacularly complete with a very light puff pastry that crumbles into the cream sauce laden with vegetables.
There’s also a robust cocktail program is the bar itself is any indication. The restaurant touts a martini program with about five rotating offerings as well as in-house, barrel aged Manhattans and Old Fashioneds.
Owner Tim Doherty, who has opened three Syrup locations around the city, is going out on a limb a little bit but wanted to open a concept that harkens back to his childhood growing up in the Midwest and by George I think he’s done it. The space is relatively small but even the decor makes one think of a small shack on the shores of one of the Great Lakes. Going so far as to include a mural of Roaring Dan Seavey on the wall, one of the only Great Lakes pirates in history.
Doherty is planning on opening another Wisconsin inspired establishment soon that has something to do with grilled cheese. But that will be another story for another time…